The Time I Surfed a Five Foot Wave

When I was riding my friend's parents' truck on my way to the beach I watched the sunrise. I had this good feeling I was going to get some good waves that day. We arrived at the beach, waxed our boards and started to get our wetsuits on for the water. Once we were done wrestling our wetsuits to become comfortable on our body. We started for the blood freezing water. Each step across the cold sand felt good because it was my 2nd time out in the water since I broke my finger. The sand started to become more damp than cold each step I took to make it to the water. We arrived watching each wave crash one after another while we put our leashes on and waited for a good time to paddle out.

Then we all made a fast break for the water when we saw an opening between waves, we trekked through the water and jumped on our boards. We immediately started paddling trying our best to stay out of the almost frozen water. As we paddled one of the first waves hit it swallowed me while I tried to go over it. The freezing cold water caught me by surprise. I came bursting out of the water straight back into paddling becoming awake from the frozen feeling of the water. I paddled feeling as if I was gliding across the water. Another wave came sailing into view. I paddled hard and I just made it over but there was a slight spray of salt water that sprayed me in the eyes. They started to burn like rubbing your eyes after touching onions but it started to get better. I paddled a couple more times then hopped up on my board to sit and wait for a good looking wave. There were a couple of waves that I was about to go for but had to pull off because other people were already on them. 

I was waiting the whole time for a good wave then I saw a wave that was starting to form a good one, one of the best waves I have ever seen was not steep nor small, it was perfect. I started to paddle out a little to get myself in a good position for the wave. I sat on my board and started to lift the nose out of the water and spun it around facing the shore. I laid down on my gripping board from the wax and turned around taking a quick peek at the wave to make sure I wasn’t going to get crushed. I started to paddle, it felt like I was taking big scoops of water which were acting as if I was removing the whole pacific that got me to move forward. I continued paddling. I heard my friends going “You're on the wave you're on!!!”  I started to get the sudden feeling of being propelled forward as if someone gave me a big push onto the wave. I started to stand up. I turned around to see if there was anyone else going for the wave, but nope, just me. I got on my feet starting to lean to the right. to get the board to turn. I was on and I knew it. As the wave was crashing behind me. I was listening to the wave crashing behind me. 

I was very happy not really paying much attention to where I was going. I turned around to see my friends congratulating me but when I turned back around I realized my board was too far up the side and at the moment I realized what was going to happen. I fell off my board, my board was taken up by the wave and I was too. I could feel my body go up then all of the sudden I noticed that I was outside and from the wave I was falling.“Smack” I hit the water then I got crushed. That's when I remembered that I would always get crushed by waves this size, just none of them I rode but the difference was that I rode this one. I came back to my thoughts of riding the wave after being thrown over the falls. I could hear my friends saying “Ouch” I quickly went to grab my board but I just kept getting crushed by waves. It wasn't scary, it was actually quite funny because one of my friends rode the second big wave after the one I rode and he fell off right near me. He had almost experienced what happened to me, of being thrown over the falls. Once I came up from under that wave and tried to pull my board over to me I noticed that his board was coming towards me too. So now that we figured out that our leashes ended up getting tangled. We tried making it back to shore but we were constantly getting crushed by waves but we eventually made it. We started untangling ourselves. When we were done laughing about our leashes we ran straight back out to the ocean and went straight back to riding waves.

The End.